Rwanda

Rwanda

Wednesday, 1 June 2011

Week 7

Well back to the Amani Guest House for the VSO Rwanda Conference on “Quality in Education”. I guess it will be my last stay there. The food variety now feels much greater than I first thought! The welcome from the staff was excellent, they even remembered my name.

Whilst all the days were good in their own way, I was particularly impressed by some of the examples of good practice that were shared. Some of the best demo lessons I have seen. It is no surprise that VSO is making an impact here.

Whilst I remember I ought to share some observations about Rwandan society. It is based on deference to those older. For example they have a respectful way of shaking hands or giving things out. In each case the left hand grips the right forearm when shaking the hand of someone older, or giving them something such as water, the bill, etc. However they also have other forms of greeting. If you have been met before by someone they may well keep hold of your hand and continue shaking it whilst having a conversation, sometimes for a minute or more. If you meet someone you are friendly with they may give you a “shoulder hug”, this is where you grip and are gripped lightly by the shoulder whilst saying hello. However, if really good friends meet they touch foreheads several times in greeting.

Another interesting trait is that regardless of whose fault anything is they always apologise. So for example if I was to drop a fork a Rwandan would probably say, “Sorry, sorry, sorry”,
Rwandan men like long shoes. Not quite fitting for a circus show, but they like them over long, and ideally decorative. It is very good to say man’s shoes look good. I did this unknowingly to a VSO colleague early in April and was immediately liked! See picture!


After the end of the conference on Friday I stayed with Lynne and Darryl in their new Kigali home. After a few weeks they are beginning to seem very much at home. In the evening about 12 or more went to the Great Wall Chinese restaurant to celebrate Cathy’s birthday on the next day. We went on and listened to the Black Muzungus play live music, including some very passable Jim my Hendrix!

On Saturday we went into “mu muji” to buy some provisions and have lunch at the Blue Café by the UTC building. Darryl had a very nice tomato soup whilst Lynne and I eventually settled for a Greek style salad.

Lynne also wanted to use the café’s Wi-Fi to download books and newspaper to her Kindle, it proved less than easy!

After lunch we went to the Tourist Office to finally find out when gorilla trekking permits were available – no response to emails! It was a good job we did. D&L are down in the SW for the week and so they do not get back to Kigali until Friday evening. So they preferred to consider the Sunday. Well there were only permits left for Saturday and Sunday. After that it is mid to late September before there are any available. They were hoping to go in August when they have visitors, but that is no longer possible. We got the last three permits for Sunday next weekend so it was lucky we stopped off at the Tourist Office.

I have since booked our Saturday night accommodation (www.HotelMuhabura.com) and the 4x4 that delivers us to the rendezvous point at 7 a.m. in Kinigi and then takes us to the car park closest to the start of the trek to the gorilla group we are visiting. They have a number of groups and trails so as to keep visits to a minimum. We are also delivered back to Musanze (Ruhengeri) at about 2 p.m. by 4x4.

We watched the champions League final with quite a few VSO vols. who had either stayed on after the conference or live in Kigali. Shame about the result, but Barca did play the best.
On Sunday morning Darryl and I walked over to the all-weather pitch at Kicukiro and joined Mark, Dennis and Bert at the Inyange Kicukiro FC. Unfortunately Darryl is injured but the rest of us had an enjoyable game. I certainly know that I have played 90 minutes as my thigh muscles have seized up. No doubt it will get easier with walking to and from the District Office.

On my way to get something to eat one evening this week I was reminded by the stunning night sky that I had not shared that here, close to the equator, the moon‘s phases do not go from side to side but the crescent moon is either like a bowl or a cap! Very strange when you first see it.

Hope to have some good gorilla shots to put up next week!

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